Im January 2024, a year ago, I went to Japan for a 4-week journey…
It was what I would call an “experiential research journey”, very inspirational, very enriching and nourishing. Now, in January 2025, my memories are still fresh.
It’s impressions I feel like sharing now, 365 days later, but not just that… I’ll try to also share images of moments and memories which touched me and which have had an impact on my life and on my work; and of encounters with people I am deeply grateful to have met.
So, join me in retracing my Japan experience of January 2024 in my +365 JAPAN DIARY.
This is the web version of a series of posts which I have also published on Instagram and Facebook.
There was another very special event that day, but with the pictures and memories only in my head. It simply didn’t feel at all appropriate to take any pictures:
Alice and I had the honour to have an appointment with Hiroyuki Noguchi, son of Haruchika Noguchi (founder of Seitai), and founder of the Shintai Kyoiku Kenkyusho (‘Body Education Research Institute’). It was an extraordinary and deeply touching meeting and we are grateful for this encounter. 🙇🏻♀️
(Again, it wouldn’t have happened without my friend Nami’s support.)
We set off on the old pilgrimage trail up to Hagurosan (Mount Haguro) after a nourishing breakfast. It’s snowing.
We enter into a magic winter world on the trail in the forest. We walk the 2,446 stone steps (mostly hidden underneath the snow) on the stunning path through a towering cedar forest that is lined with temples and shrines for the many deities that are believed to dwell on this mountain.
Haguro-san is one of the Dewa Sanzan, the three Holy Mountains. The other two, Gassan and Yudono-san are not accessible in wintertime.
Haguro-san represents the world of the present and the salvation of current hardships. Gassan represents the past or the afterlife where we atone for our wrongdoings. Lastly, Yudono-san the world of the future where we are reborn.
This is a Shugendo (mountain worshipping tradition) pilgrimage trail of Yamabushi (mountain priests).
This is a special day. It is a special place. Deeply touching.
Silent. Cold. Beautiful. Now.
What you cannot see:
Inside the pilgrims‘ lodge, it is freezing cold (we can see our breath), but we have a little oil heater in our room and are provided with three thick blankets (at least).
And: Matsuo Bashō (1644-1694), the famous poet of the Edo period, is „with“ us. We read his book „The Narrow Road To The Deep North“ to each other and love it. Basho was here and it feels special to walk sort of in his footsteps.
More snow has fallen overnight. The holy winter wonderland surrounding us, is mostly untouched, owned by the trees, the birds and the wind.
We get ready for the descent in the deep snow.
What you don’t see:
After our descent, we walk back to the hotel in the village to pick up our suitcases which we had deposited there.
The landlady offers us hot chocolate – this isn’t just any normal hot chocolate: it is divine! The best hot chocoloate ever, and absolutely perfect after our walk.
And: on a wall in the hotel’s small lobby, a calligraphy attracts our eye and we inquire what it says. The landlord explains to us that this is one of Basho’s poems 😊.
We are back in Tokyo for another unique and very Japanese experience:
Sumo! It’s the first big sumo tournament of the year, and the tournament’s second day. Practically, it’s a whole day event, but the hall fills up more and more towards the end as the fights of the best are taking place.
Sumo wrestling is sports, ritual, tradition, worship, entertainment, a social event… and much more.
We feel lucky: We got a box seat with a perfect view, and Nami’s dad, a sumo lover, has come along. He explains to us what is happening and makes us notice and (sort of) understand what otherwise we would never even have seen! Every detail counts, such as… the referee’s style of shoes!
This is a universe of its own!
Looking back on this day a year ago now, I can hardly believe that this was just one day!
I met wonderful people, learned a lot and – despite the rain all day – really felt very much in the right place at the right time.
Additional info
SEITAI I would have never thought that now, a year later, we would be in the midst of planning Kazuhiro Sunami’s first Seitai workshop in Vienna (28-29 June, 2025) 😊 .
Seitai is a great „method“ for healthy movement and living, founded by Haruchika Noguchi in the 1940’s.
Today, the „solo travelling“ phase on my Japan trip starts.
It’s a special journey I am going on today: I will return to Motoise Naiku Kodai Shrine in Oeyama after 4.5 years.
A special place. A spiritual place. A place of inspiration for Sei-Ki.
It’s a cold and rainy winter day. No tourists. A few occasional pilgrims. A monk. No shops. No restaurants. No hotels.
Nature. The sound of wind, the waterfall and the mountain river. The tangible power of the century old trees.
Memories. And fresh experience.
Back in Kyoto, I am grateful for the opportunity to return to Kazuhiro Sunami’s house for another Seitai class 😊.
I enjoy every minute of it. It’s an intense experience.
With my senses refreshed and sensitized, I enjoy spending time at the nearby Toujiin temple. I am (almost) the only visitor – that’s the big advantage of being here in January.
I have four days left on this journey.
On this day, I am leaving Osaka and heading for Koyasan (Mt. Koya), the center of Shingon Buddhism and a small, secluded temple town. It was founded by Kobo Daishi in 805 (also called Kukai). It’s one of the most sacred places in Japan and the start and end point of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage.
The flight back took me to Zurich via Greenland! I hadn’t expected that and, even though, abstract, it challenged my „orientation“ in time:
I departed in timezone UTC +9, then passed above UTC -4, until finally arriving at UTC +8 while time was constantly moving forward. Timezones obviously are just agreements…
I am awake for most of the flight and spend much of it enjoying a writing flow… just randomly swimming in my rich inner pond of what I have lived in the past weeks, catching experiences and memories like fish, before they move on…
